Tapestry Crochet Tutorial Bit.ly/TapestryCrochet
This square is rated as intermediate because of the post stitches, bobbles and tapestry crochet; however, if taken one step at a time, I am confident that even a beginner will get good results!
This square makes use of overlay crochet which gives it the 3D appearance of one color crocheted on top of another. This effect is achieved by simply changing colors and working post stitches in the stitch 2 or 3 rounds below the current round. The square can be worked in two ways.
· Method 1: This requires working with both colors in the same round and crocheting over the color not in use at the moment, as in tapestry crochet (see tutorial). The grey and ivory square was completed using this method and you can see it is crisp with very little “striping” from the contrast color. For the noted rounds where two colors are used in the same round, work all stitches in Color 1 (the background color) except for the FP stitches, Bobbles or CL stitches – those are worked in Color 2, the lighter color. For ease of reading, I’ve written the stitches to be worked in Color 2 in blue and bolded them.
Method 2 (Easier): Work each round in the color for that round (as usual). The green and ivory square was completed using this method and you can see distinct “stripes” peeking through, for the rounds with color changes.
General Notes:
· Weave ends as you work.
· The beginning ch1 or ch2 of a round does NOT count as a stitch, unless noted.
· Numbers in () at end of round indicate the number of stitches in that round.
· Join rounds with a slip stitch to first stitch of the round.
· Start each round in the same stitch as the join.
· When a number follows a stitch, it means to work that stitch in the number of stitches indicated, (example: sc 3 means work a single crochet in each of the next 3 stitches).
· When a number precedes a stitch, it means to work the number indicated in the next stitch, (example: 3dc means work 3 double crochets in the next stitch).
Helpful Tips:
· Counting is important, to avoid frogging and frustration, check your stitch count for each round!
· Don’t work the FP stitches too tightly or they will pull and pucker the work.
· Be sure to leave an unworked stitch behind each FP stitch, except where noted.
· When working rounds 15 to 19, I state to fasten off and join in the corner, however, if you prefer to minimize the number of ends to weave, you may sl st in each stitch until you reach the corner.
Method 1 (grey and ivory square):
Work blue bolded stitches in Color 2, all other stitches are worked in Color 1. When working two colors in the same round, use the tapestry crochet method to work over yarn not in use (see tutorial link above).
For rounds 1 to 8 you may either fasten off at color changes or carry the unworked yarn to the next applicable round.
With Color 1, ch4, sl st in first ch to form loop.
Round 1: Ch4 (counts as dc + ch1), [dc, ch1 in center of loop] 11 times, join to 3rd st of beginning ch4. (12 dc + 12 ch)
Round 2: Ch1, sc in each dc and ch1 space to end, join. (24)
Round 3: Join Color 2, ch2 (does not count as st), working around dc 2 rows below, * CL around next dc, 2sc in next st*, repeat between * to end, join. (36)
Round 4: Ch1, sc in each CL and sc to end, join. (36 sc)
Round 5: Ch1, *hdc 2, 2 hdc in next st*, repeat between * to end, join. (48 hdc)
Gauge Check: Diameter = 4.5”
Round 6: Join Color 2 in the st directly above the CL in Round 3,
Ch1, * FPtr around CL two rows below, sc next 3 sts*, repeat between * to end, join. (48 sts)
Round 7: Ch1, *sc 3, 2sc in next st*, repeat between * to end, join, sl st into next st. (60 sc)
Round 8: Ch1, sc 3 (this should bring you to the stitch between two FPtr 2 rows below),
Join Color 2, * FPtr2tog working around tr to the right and tr to the left of current position, sc 4*, repeat between * until 2 sts remain, FPtr2tog, sc in last st, join. (12 FPtr2tog + 48 sc]
